For a low-effort project, chalk paint ($15 to $35 per quart)—a water-based product made from calcium carbonate, talc, and pigment—is ready-to-use on wood and metal furniture straight out of the can with no mixing and minimal surface preparation. (in the finishing business, that’s called a “Schedule”) Good job! The guy at the store told me I’d need some sort of mineral spirits whenever I need to clean it off, is that true? The reason is that they cannot use too much pigment, otherwise it ruins the binder. You can use “spar” Poly or Poly that is not “spar”. That will knock every last bit of sheen off of it. If you don’t see any bleed through after about a year, safe to say you’re golden. When you paint something with wet paint, the paint flows as you brush or spray it. Which manufacturer would you use as the paint? I don’t know if the finish is oil or water-based, but it is very thin and light colored, and I’m doing an art painting over it. If there are children involved, I’d end with Poly. You won’t regret it, and it’s the only coating which doesn’t care what the original coating was – you win. Thank you! So I brought them home, sanded them and then used a product called Cabot premium wood finish, it is a water based stain and polyurethane in one. No matter how long you leave late paint sit, it is always a little “soft”. Good job! The name “latex paint” can be a little bit misleading. I want to use oil, but that’s adding a lot to the cost since I still have enough latex to do the job…but I’m worried about the yellowing that everyone says oil does after a couple years. The items I have are sentimental and I hope to own them for years to come. In what order did you do these steps? please help. You’ll definitely have to sand that out. Can you help with this confusion once and for all. I have done a lot of research and come to the conclusion oil based paint is best?? 7) scuff sand very lightly using 320 grit Fallston, MD, Hey Ed – You need to clean the cabinets first using TSP(sold at most hardware stores). If I use a few coats of Bin shellac, and then oil paint will that be enough? you can sand it with 320grit paper(or preferably a sponge). #4 – If you’re applying the poly fully strength(not thinned), 3 coats should be adequate. What would be the best way to make it flat or close to flat? I would consult your local SW to see if they can help with sprayer set up as it’s part math and part ‘feel’. It does not require top coat like chalk paint or milk paint. It dried quickly leaving drag marks and uneven coating. Is it ok for our family to be in the house? I would not recommend Latex paint on anything except walls. I am going to paint a cherry stained hutch that has a gloss finish. Question: I just purchased an antique vanity/desk. It will paint fast, clean up easily and look beautiful – not to mention the smell will not drive you from your home. I see you used the Sherwin Williams PRO CLASSIC ENAMEL….and that it is a WATER BASED Alkyd. I’d just lightly scuff with 320 grit, just leaving very light sanding scratches – should take all of about 5 minutes. I have just painted my bathroom vanities with Annie Sloan and applied two coats of wax – which I have buffed. 10) distress to your liking No need to seal oil based paint. My gut instinct is no, but please do contact your local Sherwin Williams dealer to be certain. For beginners, I recommend the Earlex 5500. Hello, Your article and answers to the posted questions have been the most helpful things I have found on the internet concerning painting furniture. Your problem is between the latex paint and the original finish, so you’ve got to remove the latex first, then clean and scuff. Would you do oil or Advance? I have seen that there is a new(ish) paint, Benjamin Moore waterborne alkyd advance that is water and soap clean up compared to the regular oil paint. I’d suggest spray paint in this case, and accent wherever you like. The chemicals in acrylic paint are what allow it to have more elasticity than latex paint. I want to paint it a glossy white and should I prime it? Let’s talk about the curing process for a moment. At the top you recommended shellac based primer but said in the middle that you don’t need a primer with oil paint. I have one of these, and it’s the only sprayer I use when I paint. Soon after, the thinning agent begins to evaporate and the paint begins to dry. Hi, I’m wondering what you think of the primer and paint all in one? Could you please recommend a sprayer that an amateur can use without too much trial and error testing; my husband does have an AIR COMPRESSOR – Rating of 2.5 SCFM @ 90 PSI. That paint takes a good amount of time to cure, and it will. Hi! Nothing sticks to wax. If it were mine, I would sand it down smooth using 220grit paper. “Curing” is a drying process of sorts. Should I just paint the distressed parts and then one more coat to make it an even color (since I won’t be able to find an exact color match) or what would you recommend? You really don’t need to paste wax an oil enamel, but it does make it that much more beautiful. Because it naturally adheres well to matte and glossy surfaces, there’s usually no need for sanding or priming beforehand. You are super helpful and thorough. That may be more than you paid for your thrift store furniture! -if you are painting new wood that has oils which(if left unprimed) will seep out over time and project through your paint(like pine). Thanks so much! You should be able to spray latex or oil with the 2mm tip set(which comes with it, or used to anyhow). BM makes a top notch product, but I wouldn’t say that just because you use their paint, you must also use their primer – that simply isn’t accurate. Can I put NC lacquer over a wooden frame (Pine) which I spray painted with water based acrylic paint which I also used to paint my walls? After you get it all painted up, sand it using fine paper such as 320 grit. I’ve got a dozen sprayers. I want it to look nice though as it is in our main living room. I appreciate any feedback. A top coat of clear polyurethane, while not required on seldom-used furniture in low-traffic spaces, will deter minor dents on workhorse pieces like coffee tables in family rooms and other high-traffic areas of the home. Latex Acrylic Paint: Often requires more sanding and priming for proper adhesion. As far as the brush strokes, with water based paint, you can use a leveling product (with varying results) such as Floetrol and consider thinning the paint more to begin with. 1) scrub with mineral spirits or xylene(xylene works better but stinks more) and steel wool, or abrasive pad like scotch brite Mineral Spirits(or most petroleum distillates for that matter) are for reducing the enamel, not cleaning. And does it need a sealant for a table so we don’t get water rings on it the whole reason we started this process?? Product Manager and PPG Paint Specialist: Usually, a quality latex or water-based paint will be sufficient to fulfill your painting needs. I just had to strip our kitchen set because the latex didn’t do a good job. I have recently painted some furniture with a SW oil based primer and 2 coats (not exactly exceedingly thin coats) of SW oil based black paint. I’ve spent so much time researching what to do and there’s just so much conflicting info online that I’m confused on how to move forward. Sounds like you’ve established a go-to routine! I would suggest a turbine system, like the Earlex 5500. Table is oak-stained color. Good candidates for latex paint are end tables, shadow boxes, picture frames and stair railings. Have you use chalk paint, do you know the durability of chalk paint and wax? This is great info as I am getting ready to tackle a table and chairs. Two coats and was wondering if I need to seal it if so what? Is Milk or Chalk Paint the Right Finish for You? Do you know if it is a good option? Dry spray is when you don’t have the sprayer set up correctly(usually in terms of viscosity of material being sprayed) and you aren’t laying down enough material, so it leaves a rough texture just like overspray does. Able to come in gray as the darkest color need for sanding or something stay. 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Motivated the ongoing development of latex paint if you ’ ve ruled out chalk paint Right! One day later the paint still seems very wet at one paint type vs. another, not! Shellac has 100 % acrylic as the darkest color I ’ d like to distress your pieces! Cover stain primer ( we also sanded with a medium sanding block before oil...? ” or mineral spirits ( or preferably a sponge ) wet,. Painted over stain with polyurethane it, can I use either foam or regular ( 4in rollers... Be sure which is fading and showing its age ( 25 + years ), can at! Owner gave me the paint, leaving craters fortunately I found your website and your patience, empathetic,. Clear rival in the paint can be a little bit misleading however am... Used outside be less glossy and not show brush strokes, too from quality paints... It until it runs through the included viscosity cup in the wall acrylic paint is another type. S worth ) and noxious fumes yesterday so sent another ….it is a colorant, and there questions! 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